Log 4 (lost in transmission)

A piece of the journey towards the Azores which got lost in thin air and incomplete HF radio transmission somewhere in the North Atlantic.

I hope to soon give you all an update on how the post-landfall/homecoming period has been, and the current realities of this everlasting rollercoaster.

Stay tuna // Martin

Log 4

20.06 Day 26

Crazy day of down-wind sailing; top speed of over 8 knots surfing the waves with the gigantic code-0 sail. As the seas rose towards three metres, the boat got too unstable sideways, and I had to reduce the sail area. Quite a task to get that warm-air balloon of a sail down when it would rather sail more. 4.5 knots without any sail afterwards. Currently 5,5 – 7knts on the genoa. Next two days looks good, but I’m curious of the black wall building up behind me atm.

It seems like I’m in a shipping lane, bypassed three ships today fairly close. Last one, super nice Croatian captain “Palli” of the 330m long MSC Tomoko wanted to hear all about my sailing adventure as he also dreamt about sailing solo around the world, now that he is close to retirement.

123nm/24h

21.06 Day 27

Some days ago, I woke up in the night annoyed by the smell of onions. They where lying by my bedside in a plastic bag, and I only have vague memories of moving them to under the table, and then somewhere else. Last night, while attempting to compose yet another dinner, started searching for these onions. I just could not remember where they were, and I mean, how many possibilities are there? I searched the whole cabin, the bathroom, the bow, all lockers and could not find any onion. Could I have thrown them overboard in my half-sleep? I gave up and made my meal without. Today, another attempt on finding the golden treasure. I searched all the same places, dug deep in the cupboards, lockers and wardrobe, even chart table and outside lockers. Nothing.

Starting to seriously mistrust my ability to place foods at reasonable places; I finally found the fucking bag of onions under the floors, under the toilet. Yey!

Light winds, ok sailing north at 25deg. 

110nm/24h

22.06 Day 28

Back to good old fashion; hard upwind sailing in the wrong direction. Almost missed it. Luckily only for one day. Tomorrow it’s forecasted complete silence. In other words, two great days of progression ahead!

AIS started to beep as it lost GPS signal. Not good. Without it I will disappear from the screens of all other vessels, and loose track of them my self. Over to manual watch. Too much waves to attempt a check of antenna. It’s not entirely dead, just insufficient signal to establish position. I hope it’s because of the massive weather systems over the whole north Atlantic.

Signal back, now two hours later. Weak, and dropping from time to time, but back. Not dead.

84nm/24h

23.06 Day 29

Ocean changed colour overnight. No longer the playful young tropical pure blue but now more serious, darker, greyer heavy Norse-sea blue.

Fresh morning bath; really makes the day! The water start to be chilly with a drop of nine degees C from the 29-32C I’ve been used to the past one and a half years, to now 21 deg. Really missed it, that little kick.

Some welcome light winds this afternoon, pulling me east 3-4knts. I’m playing with the thought of going for the Azores as the winds this week, for once, is in favour of that.

Dreaming of fresh food, pretty tired of canned stuff now. Last little piece of cabbage went last night, and the last tomato will meet its fate later today.

Confirmed with Ostrika(Switz sailing boat), about 70nm south of me, that they also had trouble with GPS reception. Relieved it’s not my AIS showing signs of failure!

49nm/24h

Code-0 sail; 12m x 12m

24.06 Day 30

Great day of broad-reach sailing. Just slightly frustrating with 1.5-1.8knts of current against me, leaving me with 4.5 instead of over 6knts. Contact with the “Ostrika” which was doing 8-10knts with 1.5knts of favourable current (and the freezer full of fresh fish, gawd) I feel like I’m stuck in a traffic jam..

Going N to 41N to not run out of wind before turning south towards Horta (which is at 38-30N, 2deg30min = 150nm) . Can’t wait for some fresh cheese (famous in the Azores), fresh vegetables, fruits and a good bottle of Port. Full Code-0 sailing now, but still SOG (speed over ground) of only 4.2 and LOG (speed in water) 6knts.

Decided; going 60nm / 20hours north to get out of counter-current and into a favourable one to get east (and south again)

114nm/24h

25.06 Day 31

Exactly half a year since Nora flew back home from the Cayman Islands and it’s her birthday! Crazy, little sis is halfway to fifty (and thirty).

It’s also exactly one month since I left Jamaica. I’ve actually been absent from civilization an entire month. I’m not in existence to any larger degree than to you who reads these words, maybe I am the internet? Perhaps this is how the internet looks from the inside?

To further supplement the “Astral-Owls in the cosmos”, I’m exactly halfway between Jamaica and Norway; 2400nm in each direction!

Full celebration aboard under a sky and moon taken straight out of a Tim Burton movie.

88nm/24h

26.06 Day 32

While the young man is watching his pigs in the woods, he discovers a large tree, whose branches lose themself in the clouds. “How could it be,” says he to himself, “if you were to look at the world from the top of that great tree?”. So, he climbs up, all day long he climbs without even reaching the branches. Evening comes, and he has to pass the night in a fork of the tree. Next day he goes on climbing, and by noon he reaches the foliage. Only towards evening does he come to a village nestling in the branches. The peasants who live there give him food and shelter for the night. In the morning he climbs still further. Towards the noon, he reaches a castle in which a young girl lives. Here he finds that the tree goes no higher. She is a king’s daughter, held prisoner by a wicked magician. So the young man stays with the princess, and she allows him to go into all the rooms of the castle: one room alone she forbids him to enter. But curiosity is too strong. He unlocks the door, and there in the room, he finds a raven fixed to the wall with three nails. One nail goes through his throat, the two others through the wings. The raven complaints of thirst, and the young man, moved by pity, give him water to drink. At each sip, a nail falls out, and at the third sip, the raven is free and flies out of the window. When the princess hears of it, she is very frightened and says, “That was the devil who enchanted me! It won’t be long now before he fetches me again.” And one fine morning she has indeed vanished. The young man sets out in search of her, and out in the forest, he meets a wolf, who says, “do not be afraid! But tell me, where is your way leading you?” The young man recounts his story, whereupon the wolf gives him as a magic gift a few of his hairs, with which the young man can summon his help at any time. While he continues to search for the princess, he encounters a bear and a lion, who, the same way as the wolf, gives him some hairs of their fur. The lion also informs him that the princess is imprisoned nearby in a hunting-lodge. He finds the lodge and the princess but is told that flight is impossible because the hunter possesses a three-legged white horse that knows everything and would fallibly warn it’s master. Despite that, the young man tries to flee away with her, but in vain. The hunter overtakes him, but because he had saved his life as a raven, lets him go and rides off again with the princess. When the hunter has disappeared into the wood, the young man creeps back to the lodge and persuades the princess to wheedle from the hunter the secret of how he obtained his clever white horse. This she successfully does in the night, and the young man, who has hidden himself under the bed, learns that about an hour’s journey from the hunting lodge there dwells a witch who breeds magic horses. Whoever was able to guard the foals for three days might choose a horse as a reward. In former times, said the hunter, she used to make a gift of twelve lambs into the bargain, in order to satisfy the hunger of the twelve wolves who lived in the woods near the farmstead, and prevent them from attacking; but to him, she gave no lambs. So the wolves followed him as he rode away, and while crossing the borders of her domain, they succeeded in tearing off one of his horse’s hoofs. That was why it had only three legs.

Then the young man made haste to seek out the witch and agreed to serve her on one condition that she gave him not only a horse of his choosing but twelve lambs as well. To this, she consented. Instantly she commanded the foals to run away, and, to make him sleepy, she gave him brandy. He drinks, fall asleep, and the foals escape. On the first day, he catches them with the help of the wolf, on the second the bear helps him, and on the third the lion. He can now go and choose a reward. The witch’s little daughter tells him which horse her mother rides. This is naturally the best horse and it too is white. Hardly has he got it out of the stall when the witch pierces the four hoofs and suck the marrow out of the bones. From this, she bakes a cake and gives it to the young man for his journey. The horse grows deathly weak, but the young man feeds it on the cake, whereupon the horse recovers its former strength. He gets out of the woods unscathed after quieting the twelve wolves with the twelve lambs. He then fetches the princess and rides away with her. But the three-legged horse calls out to the hunter, who sets off in pursuit and quickly catches up with them because the four-legged horse refuses to gallop. As the hunter approaches, the four-legged horse cries out to the three-legged, “sister, throw him off!”. The magician is thrown and trampled to pieces by the two horses. The young man sets the princess on the three-legged horse, and the pair of them ride away to her father’s kingdom where they get married. The four-legged horse begs him to cut off both their heads, for otherwise, they would bring disaster upon him. This he does, and the horses are transformed into a handsome prince and a wonderfully beautiful princess, who after a while repair “to their kingdom”. They had been changed into horses by the hunter, long ago.

(A fairytale that Jung recounts in Archetypes and the Collective Unconscious, The Phenomenology of the Spirit in Fairytales; Grimm, The princess in the tree)

112nm/24h

Chilli has landed

This final chapter could not have been more dramatic (well it always could, my fantasy flew in all directions of disastrous, and very possible, outcomes during the final approach), but wow. What more to ask for.

Det var en mørk of stormfull aften.

The Norse sea hasn`t changed since the last time I tested it. The last 48 hours was indeed challenging, and I`ll start there, the rest will come later. “- This is Norwegian coastal radio south with the latest navigation information and gale warnings” – First VHF contact with Norwegian soil! I listened carefully just for the entertainment of hearing the voices in a familiar language crackling through the radio. “Utsira – Galeforce 7 is expected from 1800 hours”, my waters, just to get prepared for a party. Its already blowing 25 knots, and I`m sailing as close-hauled (upwind) as the waves allowed. I`ve had 30-40 and even 50 knots of wind in the Atlantic, so another round should be ok, I thought. The Norse seas are different. The mainsail was all down, with only the fock and a meter of genoa to get a bit more speed. I was healing way too much. The wind came with a few bullets of warning of what’s to come. I knew I had to reef the fock; a manoeuvre I haven’t needed to perform so far on the trip. Thirty soaked minutes later it was done. The boat moved stabile in the increasing waves and wind, 30- building to 40knots, shiverings in the hull and submerged in breaking waves but all ok. 02.30am, the last bullet for this night. “Well done girl, we did it,” I said and “knocked on wood”. A brief rest and a couple of hours of sleep. Much needed.

Next morning; new gale warning, this time force 8 – 9. 12 hours left, ok. The seasickness made a last visit to my physiology, resulting in redemption for the breakfast from the horrors of my gut, to a second fate in the freedom of the ocean. Seas continued to build throughout the day as the wind continued to increase. Minutes felt like hours, waves were building to an impressive landscape of white mountain tops with deep dark valleys. Chilli gradually became more and more a mountaineering submarine with mast, gradually developing new leaks. A constant flow of water beneath the floors from the bathroom where the air-inlet had become a hole in the roof after the fire a few days earlier. I manually pumped out water from the bilge every fifteen-minute. Occasional heavy rain, no use of hiding from the water. Thankful beyond belief I didn’t have more than a few hours left to shore, calm conditions, friendly faces and a dry bed; or did I?

I contacted the coastguard to get information of the safest entrance in to Farsund; if there was areas with even more severe conditions than out here. –“It`s all a chaos; entirely up to you to decide of an attempt to enter coastal waters or not. If anything would go wrong, a rescue operation would be impossible. You might look for another safe haven”. Great.

I marked out a passage which looked advantageous. I could sail on a close reach and keep the depth of 250-300m before turning 90 degrees towards shore and get everything from behind and surf in over the more shallow waters.

The big turn closed in and the waves and wind continued to rise, the cockpit got more frequently filled with water. The life-buoy and got loose and entangled itself in the 30m rope after the boat. “Should I attempt this at all?”- the question was racing constantly in my mind when I scouted the shore to get a glimpse of the conditions further in; white mist and breaking waves with occasional white explosions at the reefs.

I turned, tacked and headed straight towards where a light-buoy supposedly was. It was not. Blue-screen on the navigation computer for the first time in two years. The nav-pad outside was so full of water that the screen was unusable. No navigational data. I understand that the coarse is changing; the wind wane is not awake; shit. A rope has entangled itself around the air vane, so tight I could not get it loose right away. I apply the autopilot and luckily it steered fairly good. We were surfing at an impressive speed towards shore as the waves get even higher because of the gradually more shallow water. Down at the chart table, the computer reboots and are back in the game! But again, wrong coarse, headed straight for the rocks some hundred metres away, what now!? The autopilot as having a nervous breakdown, probably water damage somewhere. Down to manual steering, and memory of the map. The wind was screaming in the rigging, and the stamps-sized sail (reefed fock) was flapping violently

Finally the lighthouses got more visual and the path clear. A much-welcomed shelter behind a reef. It`s over, we fucking made it, pardon my Portuguese. Two years, 19 countries and about 15 000nm, still afloat.

A committee of wet, flag-waving family and friends at the dock, what more to wish for. Life is good. Thank you all.

I`m Home.

Log 6; Azores – North Atlantic

08.07 Day 38: Departure Azores
I’m tremendously happy I decided to stop in Horta, what a place and community. I`m possibly overirrigating my experience after the social, culinary and sleep deprivation the five weeks prior, but it felt truly great to have a taste of home, Europe.
The departure was a scene taken straight out of a overly sentimental movie, as Chilli strolled out of the marina and around the anchorage to wave goodbye to all new friends.
Back on the blue, feels like being back at the office after a dreamlike vacation in a dimension containing solid ground, other humanoids, port wine and green vegetation, but ok, last leg. Feels like I’m almost home, just another 2000nm to go and the weather prognosis is good. Should go fast.

Fotos_cidade_horta-001-Custom3.jpg
09.07 Day 39
No wind, but favourable current and good speed with the engine. It`s nice to not worrying about running out of fuel. My conservative estimation of 20 days to Norway will most likely be less, possibly almost a week less.
I feel pretty bad, nausea without really being seasick. Attempt to shake it off with a good swim in the fresh water and “Old stuff still does the trick” by Farmers Market on sax, impossible to play but the “adhd-rabbit-state” this music induces is always fun. Reality is the totality of experience, so adding a bit Balkan jazz to this slightly miserable state balances the equation somewhat.

115nm

 

10.07 Day 40
Two years since departure from Oslo!
How times have changed, I feel way more experienced and grown up, but at the same time younger.
Pus off at 03.00 am previous night and Code 0 from morning.

 

avskjed2.jpg(Departure from Aker Brygge, Oslo, 2 years ago)

22.00; Heard a loud bang, I run up; the huge code 0 has fallen down and lies plastered to the bow and long-side the hull in the water. Rescue operation goes ok. Can`t see any damages to the sail, luckily. The socket-bolt of the block holding the halyard in the top of the mast has snapped. Got to fix it when the sea is flat. We do okay with genoa and fock on poles.

102nm

11.07 Day 41
The AIS alarm goes off non-stop for three hours this morning, because of a fishing vessel following me 3nm south, super annoying. The boat has been rocking sideways as if I had lost the keel the whole night, and I just endure this madness of motion and “BEEP, BEEP, silence two min, BEEP” as I try to get some more sleep. Nausea and complete lack of appetite, slice of Abacaxi for breakfast.
Since it`s Mathias` birthday, I make myself a good dinner for the first time since Horta. The Appetite comes back, good move, thanks ginky.
122nm

12.07 Day 42
111nm
13.07 Day 43
Grey and misty
Clear, sunshine and bath-time
Grey and misty
Fixed the halyard block in the masthead, filled diesel from the three cans at the aft deck, checked the engine, filled motor oil and spliced eyes for the shackles in the new set of genoa sheets I bought in Horta.
“All I know is Tonight” – Jaga Jazzist on the sax
105nm
14.07 Day 44
The world is black and white; the water silver and black, scarp white mist everywhere. The horizon is 100m away in all directions, my world is small and the external absent.
Water is flat, which makes it a day for coffee!
Freezing cold and dripping wet outside. Surprisingly lot of birds out here, seems like the same five Albatross-seagulls follows us.
The AIS has been mostly out the past days, and I made another go in fixing it. The unit apart, nothing interesting there. Went over the cabling and the antenna, little bit of wiggling and taking out some coils and suddenly it works! Damn china crap, but ok, Im happy. Hope it get me home.
106nm

 

15.07 Day 45
Pus off at 03.00am, finally. Almost no wind, but hey, 2knt equals 48nm in 24 hours!
It`s almost as much moisture above as below water, and ice cold.
A tanker at three nm ahead of me, no visual contact what so ever.
Donna Lee – Charlie Parker on the sax (maybe in another ten years I’m able to play it?)
Some QSO`s (HAM) with a Spaniard, Italian, Austrian and a German guy; radio in good working order. Good to know. Hope to reach QST-LA on Sunday
Halfway through Douglas Murrays book “The Madness of Crowds”, highly recommended. I`m also lost halfway out in “Papillion” – Henri Charrière, absolutely insane story. Mandatory read before you die. (Why is`t it a Netflix series based on that book yet??)
88nm
1200px-Portrait_of_Charlie_Parker_in_1947.jpg

16.07 Day 46
Sailing has seriously started; top speed of 8.5knots!
Got the Code 0 back up after it went in the water some days ago. Bit of entanglement, but alright. Still whole.
Slow night, so the daily nm count is just above 100nm, but considering that I had about 2.5knts through the night, its pretty great.
Remembered my sub-woofer project I had in mind a year ago; finally built it out of a 10l water-can and gaffa-tape, and wired it all up. Woof woof
I`m now on latitude of Bristol, soon home!
102nm

I understand I`ll miss this life, even this strange (so far) never ending solitude, with days which only differ to each other in how the weather is behaving, and my energy level. Miss the purring of Pus, the changing skies, this simple life. Retrospect on the current. I`m also in love with the idea of all the possibilities I`ll have back home. Access to friendly faces, external input, admirable people and the possibility to ask someone else than my self about anything and everything. Stabile ground and routines.
I`m reflecting a lot back on all the phases and chapters of this journey, all the people! (see the crew list on the webpage!) Especially Brazil, what that time did to me, all I learned, what marks it has left and how I miss my girl, friends, Tonanzin (the community) and the wild magic climate and nature there. I`m looking forward actualize the agreement with Filipe, to travel the Amazon river, to the mountains, together, in 2029.
Paradoxically enough, what I look the most forward to is the freedom I do not currently have or have had since I left Norway; real access to a society. It seems so limitless! The grass is always greener, and all of that, and no matter where one are; it`s always possible to make a prison out of it, but it`s all about harvesting the fruits of perspective prom the other side; imagine living the exact same life over and over; what would your next decision look like?

 

 

Log 5; Last leg – Azores

Just a super quick update before I lose connection.

I left Horta two hours ago after an amazing and intense last chapter with the sailing family. Friends everywhere, both new and familiar faces.

Further updates will come every week via Mathias. And again, If anyone feels like writing anything to me, provide a interresting article, a strange news story or whatever, please do 🙂

Log from the last days before arrival in Horta:

Log 5

27.06 Day 33

Silent and favourable current. Speed this morning; 4.3knts, while moving about 1.5 through the water, insane! Much needed morning-bath. Checked hull and propeller, some gooseneck-barnacles but otherwise clean. Prop needs grease. Engine on low rpm for a few hours to charge, make water and move stupidly fast considering the circumstances. Some strange hammering from Pus on low rpm, hope it`s nothing serious, but I will adjust her valves when we get to the Azores.

Full clean-down of the boat; floors, roof and walls. Stuff grows everywhere in this humid climate. It feels like this symbiosis of our common state; I`m not clean unless Chilli is clean. It`s no point in washing ether if the other is not. Mutual caretaking.

98nm

28.06 Day 34

Slow.

Strange observation; I heard a humming sound, like a large propeller plane flying low. Did`t see anything, but the experience of hearing something alien to the (immense variation of sounds the) boat (is able to compose and come up with) was really strange.

Dreaming of home.

Diving in Charlie Parker.

5 minute dolphins

66nm

29.06 Day 35

It all depends un todays and tomorrows progression. If Im not getting within the range of about 100nm of Horta, that is what I have fuel for, by Tuesday night, I might end up drifting around until next week. The wind is going to die completely down and eventually turn around against my direction, so lets keep the speed up! 300nm left, and doing 5knts (=120nm/24h); so far so good! 

2 minute dolphin. Really jumpy

77nm

30.06 Day  36

Land in sight! What a insanely strange phenomena: land. This massive piece completely out of any reasonable proportions, like an alien space ship rising out of the ocean straight in to the low dark roof of clouds. A stationary rock, round little island; Corvo. First evidence of alternative surface matter to water in 31 days.

It`s almost ridiculous; after so much drifting, counter currents and slow progression, now, the past 200nm and the 20 hours I have left, almost out of diesel, I`m blown away in great speeds despite the light winds. It looks like its no longer a far fetched fantasy to reach Horta tomorrow, which is seriously nice considering that the coming weeks weather around the islands is a high-pressure boble without any wind for sailing, and if any, in my opposite direction.           

130nm/24h

01.07 Day 37

All sails and engine. Hanging on the very last bit of wind, and great speeds.

Wind died 2 hours before arrival at 02.00 local time. AIS Died just when I got close to the coast, typical.

Arival.

 

Smell of fresh lands, and cows, how I missed this!

 

112nm

 

I later found out that the engine had run dry of oil, luckily only because the oil-pin had popped out. The engine was also only standing on three of four mounting pods, and acted completly jelly. All good now, boat full of fresh food.
I Can`t say Im thirsty for ocean already, but it feels like being back to normal every-day life after an exiting vacation ashore.

Estimation is 20 days to Norway. Im headed slightly west the first 1-2 days to catch some winds before heading directly for the Hebrides, Orkney and Kvinesdal.

See you soon

// Martin

Log 3; The Atlantic Ocean

13.06
Motor-sailing until about 1600, unstable winds but fair and warm weather. Lots of activity in the horizons. Rolled in the genoa in a squall from clear sky and both chain-clips loosened/ broke in the process as the genoa flapped violently in the building wind. Only down to reefed fock and 3. reefed main.
85nm/24h = 157km

14.06
Squally, squally night—
Good progress, and the seas could have been worse.
At last check-round before bed, I found one solar panel hanging halfway down in the water as a wave had broken off the aluminium mounting. Easy fix, no further damages.
Concerned with my radio as it is getting worse; just shutting itself off and immediately on again. This interrupt and breaks off the winlink/Pactor connection when sending and receiving emails. I took the units apart, checked connectors and opened the radio but my care did not bear fruits.
86nm/24h = 159km

15.06
Celebrating that the dark chaos is at stern and fair weather and sunny days ahead.
Going mad with a clinking sound originating presumably from the floor or the water-tank (which is in the keel). I`ve heard it before in similar conditions, but it has gotten stronger. I attempted on ripping up the floors, which is all glued, to no success. Cut up a part of the floor under the table with a fein-saw, and then a square hole through the 12mm fibreglass down to the tank. No discovery of cause, but at least now I have a window to see the water level. It`s like a heavy ball of lead or stone is suspended in the tank on a string, bouncing endlessly off the walls and resonating. It`s pure pointlessness through the fiberglass in the floors and the table. AAaaaawwww!!!!
Concerned with my radio, it`s getting worse; just shutting itself off.
Played through a Dream Theater track on keyboard (The Count of Tuscany) I have barely even heard since 2011, but my fingers remembered, fascinating.
Super-bright starry heaven, and one particularly strong yellow-ish light just above the horizon. I checked the AIS, got to be a vessel. Nothing. Turned on the radar and scanned the proximate 20nm, nothing. I stared at it for a long time, could not decide if it was moving or not. I plotted it against the relatively vague stars in the background of this monster star and continued to watch. No movement, not a vessel. What was that?? Rare to see out in space all the way to the oceans crest.
102nm/24h = 188km
pmow1
16.06
What a day of sailing!
Started the day by pitchpoling a Portuguese Manowar (Portugisisk krigsskip). Sun is shining, and we`re doing 5.5 – 6 – 7.4knots! Hope this lasts as long as possible!!! All napkins up. I got to get through the high pressure within the coming week and get north to 38-40N to catch the westerlies, a system now unfolding in the Labrador sea.
A school of Dolphins swam by, I get so happy when they do!
Baked bread and had a great lunch.
The radio finally died, and there was no longer a greater risk to open it rather than waiting for support. Luckily, it was the same spot as a year ago which had a bit of corrosion. Soldering lead with the thickness of just a bit more than a hair-straw is challenging when everything moves, but I got it back together and it works like a charm.
Got an email from another winlink station, Klaus-Dieter, a German cruising net called “Intermar”, with their QSO at 1630 UTC at 12.313mhz. They informed me about another of their sailboats just a short day ahead of me! Good to know it`s not too far to people should I for some reason need assistance.
Once again, no moon and a stinging crisp night-sky, pitch black water and mareel creating a comets-tail after Chilli, like we are a falling star on the reflection off an ocean in space.
125nm/24h = 231km

17.06
The sea is glittering with what from a distance looks like plastic bottles. Luckily, its only half deadly jellyfish; Portuguese Manowars, or sailing jellies. Strange creatures: bobbing around as if they have a float-plan. Some look like are tacking upwind, some on a beam reach while some lie capsized tanning their weird curly underbellies or sleeping off some food coma after a disintegrating feast on some small fish. Differentiating from most other jellyfish, they eat living pray and not plankton. Paralyzing small fish with their up to 30m tentacles, bringing them to the jelly central and digests without ingestion, only by spraying it with fancy chemicals and suck the fish-juice with its arms. Nice fellows.

Great day! Climbed the mast to get some different perspective this morning. Boat looks super-ship like with all sails out from above. Attempted on a cup of (butter)coffee, the first one since Mayaguana over two weeks ago. I`m careful because caffeine is a major trigger of seasickness, but in these calm conditions, that’s no longer a worry.
Came across something in my Motessier book, The Long Way, which really caught my eye; three different translations from Hebrew of a biblical verse on the topic of our ability to act freely when opposing moral challenges; “Thou shalt rule over sin” (promising that we will act good), “Do thou rule over sin” (commanding) and “Thou mayest rule over sin” (leaving us with the choice). Think of sin as willful blindness or ignorance; snake-genesis. What quote is obvious the right one to follow is (at least in my opinion) the latter, but, it isn`t obvious which one humanity follows, or whether it`s even consistency in our behaviour over time. I think this problem is a meta-epicentre of a parameter to observe to find the border of subjective vs. collective (diminished) ability to act rightfully. (having the movie “The Pianist” (Warsaw, 1938-45) fresh in mind; what a uniform or (and) a symbol (marking) is able to make humans do.)

Surprisingly good winds today, but dying down as we speak, now sometime in this glorious afternoon. What is the time?, hard to tell. It is 18.48 UTC whatever that really means. Well, it`s sometime past my recent late lunch- time. A ship passed today, second one I see since the Caribbean ocean.
On days like this, I feel like just continuing sailing, not land anywhere, just continue. Feel this enormous freedom to not be eaten by the structures of civilization. I remember the world, but it does not exist here.
Torpedo-dolphins having a jumping competition in front of the boat, streaming like silver arrows in the ((morild)) in this clear dark glittering night.
102nm/24h = 188km
20180918_133400
18.06
Was woken by the AIS alarm this morning, and ran out in my surprise to look for ships. Big bastard at stern hunting me in, on actual collision course. They saw me on AIS too, but didn`t seem to care much. I altered course (which didn`t change much as I was doing 2knts, and they 14knts.) Thorco Logic, a about 200m long ship passed about 150m away (feels really close!)
I download small, high detail weather maps (in addition to large scale, lower resolution) to plan a path through the light winds, with changes every few hours. In heavy weather it`s usually too unpredictable as changes in conditions happens fast and rapidly as the local systems interact with each other.
Current plan is to get to 40N 49-20W by Saturday/72hours meaning 4.7knots average, which is not going to happen, but I got to fire up Pus to not miss the party going east when the winds become too light. Right now, it`s dead silence everywhere in a larger area, so I just attempt on the most conservative path.
My Jellies, which still floats by, by the thousands, seems to have their collective period of intercourse, and threesomes, and some more-somes. Or maybe it`s family mingling together, hard to tell.

Dug up an old external hard-drive from the chart table and discovered some old games (Battlefield 2/ 1942, Assassins Creed) and my father’s old music library (from when we actually downloaded music, HDD close to being a fossil). The Spotify playlists are getting a bit worn out, so this is gold!
Also found all digital material from my high school/ college days, strange to look through again.
83nm/24h = 154km
19.06
As I filled the diesel tank half full yesterday, with two of the four 20l jerrycans I had left, and still have 80nm to go before I`m seeing any wind, I really count the hours of usage left. Running at 16-1700 rpm (norm 2300, and marching speed is 2750) feeling on the consumption/ speed to be the most economical but I wish there were some way to read out consumption live.
I can only hope the current consumption is wise and this is to be the last of great highs I have to plunge through with engine-power in this watery desert.
Pus finally got some rest after 24 hours of motoring. I made it. Still about 80-90l diesel left, but also 3000nm (5555km). First downwind-sail since Brazil – Suriname; A good feeling to see the massive red “Code-0” (lightwind sail) unfold (without a wrestle, for once), measuring 12m x 12m, embracing half of the boat, making us glide silently with the wind.
96nm/24h = 178km

Really appreciate the emails! Don`t hesitate to send whatever intriguing you may come across online or IRL. There`s not that much input out here except weather reports (which are getting more and more exciting). (Keep file size below 50kb-90kb, or else it takes forever to download)

Log 2; The Atlantic Ocean

 

06.06 Day 12
Started and ended calm, but with some good sailing for a while, up to 6knots! Not seen that kind of speed so far on this voyage.
The beautiful birdbird-bird (long slim tail, as a long whip, white with distinct black pattern) tries restlessly to land on the boat; with long well calculated approaches from behind with the unfortunate outcome every time that there is no place to land if you have flat feet. I’ve not seen them land in the water so far, and when thinking about the fact that we are 550nm to nearest coast (990km) these guys must long for a place to rest!
Trying to introduce some exercise routines and yoga, but the motivation isn`t great. It does help on the energy and mood though. A bit flat after a week of grey moist weather and barely any wind.
The problem with the cooking gas valve persisted; ended up opening up the coil (which was by no means designed to be opened), found a corroded cord in the coil and fixed it; finally works!
The weather guy seems nervous on my behalf, so that’s a great sign for what’s to come!.. I kind of got a hint last night due to the mere size of the halo around the moon; with the moon at about 40-50 degrees on the sky, the halo reached almost down to the horizon, gigantic circle!
Blasting Devin Townsends Z2; tales of intergalactic alien warfare with the main mission of captivating humanities supply of quality coffee; great!
72nm

694514
07.06 Day 13
All the way to Farmers Market in the playlist, and Im not even halfway!
Sea sea sea sea sea is all I see, endless grey. The past week I have progressed (not sailed directly) only 350nm, meaning 49nm a day/ speed of 2knts, which is pretty sad (That’s what’s generally takes three days, not seven).
The goal for the next seven days in 600nm, ending at about 31.14N 056.20W, and then “only” have about 1500nm left to the Azores.
I realize that I probably have short supplies to sail directly to Norway, as the distance Jamaica-Azores will take in total five weeks due to the abnormal slow weather conditions this year, and adding on another three to four weeks to that (60-70 days total without resupply) will probably be too much (but not impossible!) (hey, how`s the corona isolation going?)
The easterlies finally came! Life is so ridiculous different when sailing downwind instead of mash through waves head on, fighting against everything upwind and doing 3-4.5knots. Chilli is running 4.5-5.5 in what’s feel like a light breeze, with all sails up; full main tight in for stabilization, slack genoa and cutter-fock on a pole to windward. Almost starting to look forward to the stronger winds, to see what we can do!
Starts to get significantly colder; the coconut oil does no longer get out of the bottle by it self!
The lines in the night sky is absolutely massive, like a spiderweb of Mordor, covering the whole sky. The moon signifies turbulence…

08.06 Day 14

Holy shit what a night! Steady winds until about 02:30 when I was caught a bit with my pants down (not literally, haven’t really used pants in weeks), as the wind picked up from its steady 17knt to 35 in about 20min. Everything was black, except the enormous line of clouds and weather which where even darker. The lightning in the horizon was suddenly no longer in the horizon, but above me. For the first time at sea I really heard the thunder and got anxious it would hit the boat. I took apart all essential electronics; chartplotter, pc, HF-radio, AIS and shoved it in the oven (since it acts as a faraday chamber should the lightning strike), and unplugged everything I could not easily dismount. The boat started to lie sideways as the wind got too strong for the wind-vane and rudder to counteract the sails. I fought the mainsail down as the wind picked up to 45knots with periods of over 50 and heavy rain, great shower!

With the main down, the fock still on its pole and a bit of the genoa out to leeward for balance, Chilli surfed with the elements in 6-7knots; behaved just perfect. I watched the thunderclouds for a couple of hours before I collapsed in my bunk. I slept for maybe 30min and had a super strong dream, which I seriously thought was real, being outside in the cockpit in this exact storm, seeing another larger sailboat nearby and realized that without my AIS I`m completely invisible. I woke up immediately and realized that it was just a dream, mounted the AIS back and fired it up before going back to sleep.

Finally got to test the storm-wall for the doghouse I made, worked perfectly!

The front closed in on me in the morning hours, giving steady 25-30knots. This massive line in the sky reaching as far as I can see in both directions made me think of the origin of the great serpent surrounding the world; not impossible this phenomena is linked to its origin in mythology. I tried to steer away from it, but It closed in until after a couple of hours it just disappeared above my head. Winds calms down, the worst is over, for now.

115nm/24h

e39c5e24903dd6bfec18b28a3ccb185a
"Sea, Sea señor Squidvåg"
Questionable artwork commissioned by Mr. Borge Bull
09.06 Day 15
Light steady winds and good sailing.
Realized the fock has ripped apart during the heavy weather, hope to revitalize it when conditions get calmer, but the sail has seen better days.. Made an attempt to start sewing by hand, but even with my sailmakers glow and prepinched holes, it`s too thick. Luckily, even though it’s a furling sail, It can be reefed and used as a stormsail, which I continue to do.
First starry night in a while.
92nm/24h

10.06 Day 16
With some interesting weather at night-time fresh in mind, I now interrogate the weather reporter on the subject of squall-activity at night. He assured it wouldn’t be any this night.
02.00 – Winds picks up to 35, and the dark sky is full of squalls. An hour later, after the sea has been sufficiently stirred up to 2-3m waves, short and stupid, there`s suddenly not a breath of wind. I don`t dare to hoist the main sail as a stabilizer as I usually do as the sky is full of angry clouds. The boat rocks like crazy as Im lying sideways in the waves and drifts slowly to SW. Super annoying. One hour later the 35knots is turned back on and drags Chilli somewhat unwillingly headfirst through the waves upwind.
The sea settles somewhat throughout the day, but I miss the beam reach sailing.
Its going to be a long way home.
The weather this year is highly unusual, but I heard rumours that it will progress towards somewhat normal patterns sometime next week.
93nm/24h

 

11.06 Day 17
Calm night, and an exceptional unstable morning; believe I had the genoa in and out seven times, went in a circle twice. I fell asleep in the cockpit and jumped up and reefed in the genoa again a strong gust spun up the wind generator, and I expected a stronger squall. Again, it was just a gust. Back to dead calm. Large strange dark clouds and system everywhere. Tiresome…
Drifted south the whole morning and decided to motor-sail the rest of the day to take advantage of the light NE winds, or else it looks like from the forecasts that I would end up drifting here at least until next week. Hopefully I get to the other side of a front tomorrow which might give SE winds to go north. Might be difficult to get to the Azores, unfortunately.
Its misty, wet and cold. Silence is frustrating but going infinitely in the exact wrong direction is even worse; I believe most Atlantic crossings looks quite different from this.
Made a cake to make up for this shitty day, which turned out exceptional.
92nm/24h

weather-superstitions-10
12.06 Day 18
The frustration of yesterday lifted with a great night rest in calm condition and the engine running on low rpm. Not ideal course, but ok, at least some eastwards progression.
Really feeling the longitudinal shift as the day starts earlier and earlier. Woke up at 05.00 to a sunrise looking like a renaissance painting in 180 spherical degrees, with “Heaven” in front with a tremendous play of colours and sky formations, and “Hell” at the stern; numerous squalls dark as where the sun don`t shine(huhu). I ramped up the engine to not get swallowed by the darkness and got well out of it. Suddenly, a strange splash. I only saw the wake, then again. Pyramid waves? A pair of huge dolphins dancing with Chilli! What a view in the crystal clear deep blue water. Not a gust of wind so no waves or ripples to disturb the transparency of the waters crust. Only a huge swell from north, 2-3m high and 30-50m long valleys of water which only lifts us up and gently down. I sat about an hour in the bow playing with them, waving my arms as to orchestrate their movements. They lay over to one side to look up and see me from time to time, and it seems they try to replicate what I do!
Had a much needed, long, refreshing and energizing swim and freshwater shower. The result was a full clean-down of the boat, laundry, cleaning and organizing of a food compartment rounded up with a great breakfast with freshly baked bread, what a morning! Good spirit in Dolphins.Mackerel skies warns for what’s to come…

2. Leg; Mayaguana – South of Bermuda

Hi! My name is Mathias and I will be posting Martins weekly-ish logs while he is at sea. I speak to Martin daily and if you by any chance want to get a message across to him you can send it to me at mathiasdellner@gmail.com. As he is sailing in solitude I know that any message, small and all, will be appreciated.

98287954_2646632492325438_5194659221051801600_n

Day 5, 30/05/2020

Departure Mayaguana
Realize that the axle-shaft sealing is flushing the engine room with water when the boat is accelerating, as the engine is pushed forward and easing the pressure on the seal. Not good. I tightened it up, and it works, but should be replaced soon.
Hoisting the genoa and sailed the 30min it took through the reef, when the wind died 100%. I`m restless and got some nausea because of the seasickness plaster. The ocean is flat, so I removed it, just makes me feel crap.
Check-in in on the DooDah/ Transatlantic cruisers HF-net, and get the weather report with Chris Parker; Trying to get north of 32N by Thursday to catch a weather system going eastwards.

Supersweet dinner; Bacon, potato, coconut mash and fried plantain cakes for dessert.

Plantain (or banana) cakes recipe;

Mash two large, super-ripe plantains inside their peal and squeeze them out.

Add honey, egg, three spoons of flour, salt, cinnamon, vanilla and coconut oil (optional; ginger, chilli, nutmeg).

Fry in coconut oil (one spoon-cakes)- epic$$

Played some sax and watched an episode of Billions (great stuff!) before sleep.
No activity through the night, but;
When I woke up around 04.00, the moon had set, and the great cosmos was swarming all around me; the milky way was 3D, shooting stars, great thunderclouds in the distance with frequent lightning and a stream of light around and after the boat in the pitch black invisible water (Milky sea effect/Morild); what a firework! Chilli was sailing through a galaxy!

103nm/ 24h

Day 6; 31/05/2020
Woke up by the autopilot alarm saying we are off course; the anchor for the driver-arm had loosened in the deck. Hand-steered while the epoxy hardened about an hour. Dead silent, 20-30m long gentle waves.
Filled four cans of diesel on the tank. Messy work.
Cleaned the deck, and had a swim
A bit of Northerly winds in the evening and through the night. Full sails and an extra knot.

102nm /24h

98203754_176236470378309_7852606058668228608_n
Day 7; 01/06/2020
Woke up of a dream where Chilli was anchored on the upper side of a waterfall, on a lake. The tide turned and Chilli drifted over the edge, and was hanging in the anchor chain halfway down, but I had a plan on recovering her as long as the anchor held. A voice called on me, which I always get when I should wake up for some reason. The minute after I got up, the AIS alarm went of. A sailboat on the horizon.
Stopped the boat, swam some rounds around the boat, checked the engine and filled oil. That silence, on the dead calm sea and early morning, after running engine non-stop for 48 hours, my gawd.

111nm/ 24h

Day 8; 02/06/2020
Blowing up to 30knts and later 38knts with changing wind direction and extraordinary messy seas. I got seasick, ate a bag of banana chips and started throwing up. It didn’t stop until 20.00. No food or water, very tired.
Blasting Opeth and singing loud kept some life in me!
First full day in 18months I’ve used a sweater.
Focus on not going west

96nm/ 24h
Day 9; 03/06/2020
Finally calmer seas! Exhausted after yesterday. Good sail, and finally some eastward progression.
Got some nasty rash after yesterday. Boiled up some Chaga/Ginger/Ashwagandha coctail, hope it works.
Food tastes awesome after 36h fasting; small pot of rice with a couple of eggs, half onion and a can of sardines.
94nm/24h
99072052_248206989623182_7545487691953995776_n
Day 10; 04/06/2020
Another good day of recovering. Cleaned the boat and got myself a good freshwater shower, and filled the water tank.
Turned off the engine defiantly as I can’t get to Bermuda before the heavy weather hits. Just got to stay south of 30N to not get hit, and sail on the outskirts of the system in three days. Going to go slow for some time.
Finished first season of Billions”, want more.
Dreaming of Napoleon cake..

49nm/24h sailed
18nm progression

Day 11; 05/06/2020
Dead silence. Drifted in a circle throughout the night, progression of 18nm the past 24h, and doing between 0.5 and 2.5knts with all sails up. At least now in the right direction, crazy. Its not even anything steering the boat; the tiller just stays bit tilted to the side by it self.
Fresh bath this morning, the sea is getting a lot colder and fresher up here.
Some maintenance on the “heart interface” (electronic-system monitoring unit), the electric gas valve and some surgery on a speaker.
The rash (Hives/Elveblesten)  is gone!
Wish for some wind soon, in this speed it will take 85days to reach Norway…

 

1. Leg; Jamaica – Mayaguana

My heart was racing as I threw the shorelines aboard and jumped after Chilli who was drifting rapidly away from the pontoon in the aprox. 25knt of wind. The high pulse was a good combination of what felt as crossing the finish line after a marathon of preparations and thought processes the past week, and uncertainty about when I would set foot on solid ground again, and everything in between now and then. 4700nm is beyond my comprehension of mileage and time on the ocean. My senses was heightened when I got out in the waves as the boat hadn`t been off the anchorage since mid march, and there is always surprises; open lockers, drawers, unsecured stuff no matter how well checked it is. To my surprise nothing was falling around, but I realized I had forgot to fold in the mast-steps and call mom. A trip up the mast in two metres waves to kick of the seasickness (classic) and some last calls and glimpses of internet while the mountains of Jamaica disappeared into the evening mist and the timelessness of the sea settled in me.

I was sailing. The first three days I was literally only sailing and watching the vast scenery, weather systems, sunsets, sunrises, water, heaven and the boats movements in this soup of reality. The fact that I had no idea about when I would get anywhere made the total experience unlike any other sail I`ve started. Usually I calculate a ETA, and subconsciously count days and hours until we reach the destination. Not this time. The days flew by in a strange speed, long experienced hours and strangely short days.

The cuts and wounds on my hands and feet after the prep work finally started to heal, and the battle against the saw-dust which had found it`s way absolutely everywhere in- and outside on the boat after my sailor friend Leonardo had helped me out with some wood works while I was away from the boat (and decided that the companionway was a great place to use the electric sawing machine, cheers…) , started to come to and end.

We had mostly steady 15-25 knots of upwind sailing except from about 25 hours of motoring through the windward passage between Cuba and Haiti, just as expected. With the slight modification to the mainsails shape, and the absence of Avocado on the foredeck (the dinghy which I left in Jamaica) as a great wind-catcher, Chilli did remarkably better upwind. A relieving indication when looking at the probable winds for the rest of the passage… The Monitor windvane is working like a dream after the overhaul, equally the water-maker, radio rig and everything else aboard.

I get my weather forecasts through GRIB files (synoptic weather charts) downloaded from Winlink, and through Chris Parkers HF (radio) nets for transatlantic cruisers. After a good talk with them as I approached Bahamas, he recommended that I should wait as the Atlantic systems where unpredictable past the coming week, potentially rough and not in my favour.

Luckily, I decided to do so and anchored off Mayaguana (23.05.20). The day after I realize that my clogged ear had developed into an ear-infection, which did leave me on penicillin and strong painkillers the past week. The meds have been effective, and I’m now looking to leave on tomorrow; Saturday 30.05. Due to corona am I not able to check in to the country or go ashore. It would not make much of a difference here anyway, as the island is basically a patch of sand with about 200 locals living on rice and beans. Truly happy I really filled the boat up in Jamaica!

Mathias Dellner will continue to put out some blog posts here about once a week, as we have daily contact. Do you for any reason want to get in contact with me during the voyage, mail him at mathiasdellner ((at))gmail(dot)com. All is welcome!

// Martin

Now

I sail now.

I leave.

Only ocean awaits, for a long time ahead

Leave the tropics, leave this green fruitful latitude. The environment of my past one and a half year, and the world of those memories. Leave the destination of my past years of aim of growth.

Plans has changed, and that’s what they should do. Plans is good as long as one follows an aim and not exactly the plan.

The past weeks has been wonderfully insane. An amazing time with Alibaba, stuck in the most wack and happy world imaginable; they show for whats of true value and experiment with unique traits.

Im finally through an immensely intense periode of preperations, and now Im ready. I hope.

See you on the other side.

M.

Track me? – My Position
– Once a day I will send a position and status report via Winlink/ HF

Podcast with Explore North; Podcast #54: Kaster loss for 50 dagers tur

Alive II: Ouroboros

It’s said that the journey is the goal, but I find that somewhat inaccurate, or at least poorly articulated.

Progress is the goal because that’s the path to the centre.

In a sailboat, progress means nautical miles, but for a sailor and pilgrims alike, progress means fruitful and nourishing environments. It means being exposed to experiences constructively directed at an undeveloped potential. It means being challenged on every quality of one’s being by the relativism of culture and diversity, to be confronted on biased belief’s and inherited faults.

To achieve this, unrestricted sight, that is to say, the total willingness of sacrificing one’s comprehension of reality is mandatory. This means chaos, and the art of it is to chew of just enough to stimulate self-transformation without damage. Willful blindness is, in my opinion, the greatest sin, which is indeed deadly. Ignoring predators implies bad luck.

If we believe to be masters of our soul, then we become their servants. If we are their servants, we must make ourselves their masters, since she needs to be ruled. For our salvation and for the attainment on our soul, we must sacrifice. Thus no sacrifice can be too great for us. If our virtues hinder us from salvation, discard them, since they have become evil to us. The slave to virtue finds the way as little as the slave to vices.

C.G. Jung, The Red Book

This is one of the oldest insights in history, naturally enough because it goes hand in hand with survival. Examples of representations of this are archetype variations of “the good King”, like Osiris in Egyptian mythology and the Abrahamic story of Moses. The stories reflect that if one chooses to ignore bad intentions within the realm of one’s reality, one ends up being scattered in pieces across it, or walking the desert for 40 years. To gain knowledge requires sacrifice, which is by no means pleasant, but the discomfort might act as a compass to the dragons den. In Wace’s King Arthur and the Nights of the Round Table, the knights conclude in their quest to find the holy grail, a symbol of enlightenment, transformation and fertility, to search where they least want to look. In Norse mythology, Odinn, just as Horus in Egyptian mythology, sacrifices one eye to gain knowledge. The same happens in Dante Alighieri’s Dantes Inferno, whereas he has to descend through the nine circles of the purgatory before reaching hell to gain access to heaven. In all these stories and numerous more, there is a heroic or involuntary descent to hell and back.

The case of human civilization is the externalization of responsibility in complex hierarchies of value, and our ability to supervise our behaviour probably bypassed our capacity when reaching group-sizes of more than 70 individuals. That is long ago, and the unbelievable intelligent way of tackling this problem has been through stories, mythology and religion, which over millennia has been refined to transcendent honey of wisdom and taken a life of its own. Sometimes to be lost in its own occultness, sometimes to bear great fruits.

God is Dead” wrote Nietzsche, whereas he described “the void” left behind by the collective abandonment of religion. The function of religion was not only to add a spiritual structure to comply with, a supportive crutch in the face of existence, but also the dissemination of values created throughout human civilization. When religion became too abstract and diffuse, and the rationality of reason so clear, the tradition that the generations previously bore was extinguished. With it also vanished the foundation of values that are every culture’s spine. We lost not only a crutch to hang our inadequate sense of this reality, but also the understanding of ourselves. That something was sacred and highly respected was left in the domain of faith, and not understood as something fundamental in the struggle for existence and self-restraint. Life loses meaning, and we wonder why. We chase happiness, forget responsibility. We rather believe in the absence of a God than to not believe. Respect as a concept withers in the prism of relativism. The present-day represent a storm with high seas, and if we are not to capsize, humanity as a whole has to manoeuvre with utmost attention and focus. 

Circumambulation, C.G. Jung

It is now one year since Chilli crossed the Atlantic ocean, and I can genuinely say the past year has been another journey through all the twelve chapters of progress or growth; Circumambulation, the journey to the centre, the goal of a cycle of growth and start of the next.

It is, therefore, based on a compass directed at values and meaning instead of magnetic poles, that I have come to the enormously difficult conclusion of heading back north to Norway, and let the journey unfold itself further in the land of my roots. I’m also boiling on a considerable project I genuinely want to develop, which hopefully will give the world a little push in a better direction. Another factor is that my trouble with seasickness does not seem to seise, even after 10 000nm and intense research on every remedy that might cure it.

A quick summary of the last six months (since the previous blog… sorry…)
It has been a rather intense collection of chapters, with a lot of sailing, many countries, and a considerable amount of reading, thinking and writing for my studies.

I’ve also decided to release some of my work for you to “enjoy” – HERE, and a list over my largest inspirational sources which I really recommend – (Books, websites, Youtube, + reading list) – HERE

  • September
    • Brazil (Belèm, Soure)
      • Started online-studies: History of Idèas (which is somewhat to blame for the inconsistency of updates)
    • Brazil – Suriname (Paramaribo) with Filipe (4+3 days, stop in Fr. Guyana)
      • Little sis, Nora, appears!
  • October
    • Suriname – Grenada, with quick rest in Tobago. (4+1 days)
  • November
    • Grenada – St. Martin (3 days)
      • Guro, a friend of Nora, joins
    • St. Martin – Dominican Republic (Semana) (3 days)
    • DR – Cuba (Puerto Vita) (4 days)
    • Puerto Vita – Havana (4 days)
  • December
    • Cuba
      • Goodbye to Guro
      • Hello Ingrid, bye Ingrid
      • University exams at the Norwegian embassy in Havana
      • Juliana joins Chilli
    • Havana – Cayman Island ( 5 days and a storm)
      • Christmas!
      • Little sis disappear
  • January
    • Cayman Island – Jamaica (Kingston)
      • Climbed Caribbeans highest mountain, Blue Mountain Peak
      • Juli disappears
    • Kingston – Cayman Island
      • Vår joins
      • Earthquake
    • Cayman Island – Jamaica (Montego Bay (current location))

Now we are enjoying calm days in the vast greenness of Jamaica, and will stay, at least in the country, for a good while before deciding on the route back north.

Sincerely, thank you for reading,

– Martin